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Sharpening Page 3 of 5

...the broadhead. You are checking now on the progress on your second bevel. Also check the beveled side of the head. While we are creating a small second bevel on the back of the head, we are intentionally leaving the factory beveled side alone. You do not want to change the angle or shave steel off of that side of the Grizzly, at most we will slightly clean up the cutting edge. Our focus here is creating the second bevel while leaving the original factory bevel intact.


The small shiny “second bevel” on the back of the head. The line above
the bevel is nothing more than a small amount of paint removed by the top
of the carbide, concern yourself with the shiny spot along the cutting edge.

Once you have achieved the second bevel the broadhead should be starting to feel a bit sharp to the touch but it’s likely not “hunting sharp”. If it feels totally dull you probably haven’t worked it in the Redi-Edge enough. If it is close to hunting sharp, rest assured you’ve done well!

Now we are going to move on to the Smith’s tool. With the Smith’s as it was with the Redi-Edge it’s all about angles. First we are going to start with the factory beveled side of the head. Using the Smith’s run the carbide blades from the tip of the head to the back, dragging it along and against the edge of the head. You should feel a slight grind as the tool cleans up the edge, but again I emphasize we are not trying to shave metal or change the factory bevel in any way. The Smiths should be held at an angle away from the broadhead as you stroke the head front to back, you DO NOT hold the tool parallel with the cutting edge. Run the Smith’s down the head tip to back 3 or 4 times in all. Be sure you are applying light pressure against the broadhead as well as along it.

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