Sharpening Page 2 of 5
PLEASE NOTE: I realize there are many hand held sharpeners available that appear to be similar to the Smith’s tool. These include the Accu-Sharp and Archers Edge sharpeners among others. I can assure you they are not the same as the carbide blade arrangement on those tools is different than the Smith’s. Those tools will not work with this method, not only does the blade arrangement on the Smith’s make this method possible the carbide blades are also fully exposed which aids in the process.
With the Grizzly, the first thing we will
use is the Redi-Edge. Our goal is to clean up the beveled portion
of the head, and create a small second bevel on the flat back side.
We will want this second bevel on the back to be a tiny shiny spot
along the cutting edge of the broadhead and just a millimeter or two
wide. With the Redi-Edge sharpening is normally accomplished by
placing the rear of the blade in the carbides with the other side of
the head pointing straight up (12 o’clock) and then drawing the head
back through the carbides. That would be correct for most
broadheads with a double bevel grind but NOT for the Grizzly, we are
going to angle it to about the 11 o’clock position. This position
will compensate for the Grizzly’s single bevel grind and create the
tiny second bevel we are looking for.
For the first sharpening of a new Grizzly, you may want to clamp the Redi-Edge
in a vise if available but that is not mandatory. The vise can be
helpful as we are going to use some pressure and take off a little
Place the back of the Grizzly in the carbides of the Redi-Edge and
using downward as well as rearward pressure draw the broadhead back
towards you through the Redi-Edge. You should NOT feel the broadhead
“hop” when the laminations hit the carbide blades, if it does you
are not at the correct angle. It should draw through smoothly except
for the shaving off of the steel. Repeat the drawing process for 5
or 7 draws and take a look at...